LILA DOWNS

Tlaxiaco is the capital of the High Mixtec region of Oaxaca, in southern Mexico. It is a city of about 20,000 people, nested high in the mountains.

During a recent visit to Tlaxiaco, I learned from my friend José Perez that Lila Downs, the famous singer, was born and raised in Tlaxiaco, and had lived there most of her early years. Being a fan of Lila's, I decided to present one of my associates with one of her records, and said to my friend: "Please take me to buy a record of Lila Downs."

He said: "Of course." And we headed toward the center of town. Once there, José stopped the car at a corner, pointed at a store, and said: "There."

I jumped out of the car and went inside the store, and out again, and told José: "This is a hardware store!"

He smiled and said: "That is where you will find Lila's records." He jumped out of car, walked into the store, and showed me a collection of Lila's records on display on one side.

Puzzled, I said: Why is this store selling Lila's records?"

He answered in an explanatory tone: "This is Lila's family's store. They are her relatives. They sell her records here."

 

The Tlaxiaco river on the San Miguel bridge, showing pollution with urban wastewater.